How to Make a Mallet

I had this 4 1/2" mallet on my Christmas list but I didn't want to wait that long because it would be useful on my current project. Also, I had just bought a bow saw from Woodcraft that works fine but isn't exactly beautiful. I still had a little scrap left over from the workbench so I thought, "Hey, why not a purpleheart and curly maple mallet?" The pieces were only about a foot long so there wasn't much else I could use them for. I got the basic idea from a Fine Woodworking tip. I'd link to it but it's not on their web site.

	The first step was to lay out the shape. I wanted the mallet head to be 4 1/2" wide because the lee valley site made it sound like the 4 1/2" version was more frequently used. The top of the handle is about 2 1/2" wide and it tapers by 1/2" to the bottom of the head. From there it tapers another 1/2" to the middle of the handle and back out to it's full 2 1/2" width. I roughed out the shape on the bandsaw.
	Next I used a sharp pencil to mark where I should cut the center layer of the the mallet head. I cut that on the bandsaw too. It's important to make sure the stock you're using for the center of your laminated mallet head is the same thickness as the handle. If you're not interested in a two-tone mallet you could simply use the same stock for the handle and the mallet head. Note the kerf at the top of the handle.
	I added some glue then clamped the sides down and faces together. (Face clamp isn't shown in the picture.)
	As Norm would say, let's let this cook overnight. :-)
	I used a 6" compass to get the arch for the top. It's pretty easy to do, just put the point on the handle, touch the top center with the pencil, and draw. I marked a 1/2" taper on each side. Next, I took it to my bandsaw and cut out the shape.
	I had to stick a wedge into the kerf that I created in the handle. I was wondering how I was going to make it because cutting small triangles with power tools can be tricky and dangerous. However, after cutting the mallet head to its final shape I had small triangles sitting on the bandsaw. :-) I just pounded one in and broke it off. After that, I went to the downdraft table to give this thing a good sanding with my random orbital sander. It's important to chamfer the edges of the mallet head because it helps it resist splitting. Chamfering the handle is for comfort. Here it is with its first coat of Watco Danish Oil. I eventually used two coats but I only took a picture after the first.
	Here you can see the maple wedge in the handle. Hey, it matches my workbench. :-)

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