My plan for the adjustment mechanism requires a hollow leg so I used a lock miter joint. I'm getting fairly good at these now.  It only took about 5-10 minutes to get it set up and it joins nicely.  The inside of the plywood chipped out pretty badly but that doesn't bother me for a shop project.

It's hard to tell what you're looking at here because it's sitting on a piece of plywood I'm using as my temporary assembly table.  This will be the base that supports the cabinet, the casters, and the legs.  I made these half-lap joints to hold it together. 

Side note:  I'm not really happy with the no-so-flat bottom that my avenger dado blade gives me.  I hit it with a hand place to clean it up before I glued it together.

This shows the legs mounted to the base and there's me in the background laminating the inner legs together.  To slide nicely in the outer legs they needed to be just larger than 2 1/2" square.

This is a nice picture of the base and the mounted legs.  I used dowels and glue to mount the legs to the base but later in the project I realized that screws would have been simpler and possibly stronger.  I'm used to avoiding metal in my "inside the house" projects.

The rail at the top of the legs is to provide support against racking forces.  Racking forces along the long distance will be dealt with by a rail attached to the inner legs and the presence of a cabinet.

I really like the way the chamfered edges on the adjustment holes of the inner legs turned out.  In this picture three of the legs are chamfered.

Here you can see the railing I added around the inner legs and the dowel I used for the height adjustment.  Gluing up large miter cut pieces like this is hard so my wife gave me an extra hand.

The rails connecting the inner legs should help with racking forces and the dowel is for the height adjustment.  I'm really pleased with how smoothly the inner legs slide in the outer legs.

I made the table top out of 6' x 3' MDF.  I laminated  3/4" and 1/2" sheets to get the thickness I wanted.  It's screwed and glued to the legs and the apron.  You can also see the lockable casters I installed.  Before the table is finished, I'll add a replaceable top made from tempered hardboard.

Here's a side view of the table.  The heavy things in the middle are there to hold it to the rails while the glue dries.

The next step was to install the replaceable hardboard top and the purple heart trim.  I had some purple heart scrap in the shop when I built my workbench and since then it's become kind of a trademark/running joke.  I try to work it into my projects when I can.  Besides, I like the way it looks.

The top, bottom, and back have a dado to receive the divider between the drawer and the cabinet section.

I used a 1/8" slot cutting bit on my router table to receive the splines.  I used a 1/4" bit on the workbench cabinet and I felt like it didn't leave enough wood in some cases.  The 1/8" is much nicer.  Not only is it stronger but it removes a lot less wood so my feed rate could be much higher.

Here I'm cutting for the splines for the side panel.

I've attached the trim to the panel now.  You can see the drawer runners in the picture too.

I must have spent $45 looking for the right sized plug cutter.  I think I'm covered for just about any plug size I'll ever need now.  This is me filling the screw holes on the side of the table.

Side note: That hammer belonged to my grandfather-in-law.  He used it to build the George Washington Bridge.

I took a picture of a test cut on my box joint jig.  I'm standing on the wrong side of the saw here for the picture.  This is not an action shot. :)

The joints didn't line up totally perfectly so I removed the extra 1/16" or so with a hand plane.

Here the drawers are assembled and drying.  I used 1/4" hardboard supported in a groove all around for the drawer bottom.

I'm really happy with my cabinet master clamps.  Some people have said they are hard to slide.  After you use them they seem to loosen up a bit in that regard.  This is the barrister bookcase style door getting its trim glued on.

Ok, these strips are to fix a problem.  I intentionally cut the fingers on my box joint a little proud so that I could sand them nice and flush.  However, I failed to consider how that would make the drawer smaller.  When I put them in the carcass I realized that there was too much play.  I briefly tried to convince myself that it didn't matter because it was shop furniture then I started fixing it.  These 1/8" strips will sit next to the runners to keep the drawer centered.

I didn't know how I would clamp the drawer guides above the runners so I came up with this idea.  It worked pretty well.  The spring clamps in the foreground are clamping on the purple heart that makes the trim a bit wider.  Now the drawers fit properly and they slide great.  I'm really happy with the way the fix worked out.

This is the dado for the barrister bookcase.  I made the dado before I assembled the carcass but I had to chop out the purple heart section like a hand chopped mortise.

The completed assembly table with the cabinet installed.

I tried so hard to keep the top clean until I took these pictures.  I grabbed it with my oily hands while installing the cabinet, the very last step.  Oh well, it's a replaceable top.  Maybe after it gets really trashed and I replace it I'll take new pictures.

This is a close-up of the height adjusting mechanism.  I like the way the chamfer came out.  That rail handles racking forces in one direction while the cabinet handles it for the long direction.  In addition to that, the rails at the top of the photo provide additional strength as well performing their primary job of keeping the table from bowing.