The first step was to glue up the table top.  I like to do this first because you really want to glue to be fully cured before you smooth it.  I've read that if you don't you'll be removing wet/swelled wood from the face to face glue-up that will not be flat after it dries.

Two days later I broke out my hand planes and started flattening the little differences in the top.  That's my daughter hamming it up the for picture.

I used the table saw and a dado blade to put a 1 1/4" tongue to hold the bread board in place.

I used my small dovetail backsaw to make the vertical cuts that will help form the tenons.

I used a coping saw to remove wood between the tenons.  You can see that a tongue extends the entire way while the tenons only appear in the middle and near the ends.

At the edge, I used a backsaw to finish the tenon.

There was about 1/32" left after I used the backsaw to remove the edge.  I cleaned it up with a chisel.

With a hand plane, I removed a few shavings from the center of the breadboard so that it would be "sprung" or held in place by the center dowel.

I created the groove and mortised on the breadboard with my router table.

Here I am using my rabbet plane to adjust the tenons and tongue to fit the breadboard.

Clamp it up and drill the holes for the dowels. I cut the breadboard to be about 1/32" wider on each side so that when the table expands it won't expand past the bread board.  That's a more attractive option than having the bread board too short during the summer.

Here I'm using a coping saw to extend the drilled hole for the wood's contraction and expansion.  Yuck, I cut my thumb with a backsaw, Roy Underhill would be proud. :-)

Next I clamped it up and drove in the dowels with my mallet.  After the glue dried I took my flush cut saw and removed the excess dowel.

I used my various marking gauges to mark out the tenons.

After I mark them I like to take the time to follow the marks with a mechanical pencil.  It took about 30 second per tenon or 4 minutes total.  That seemed like an eternity and I was getting impatient so I just stopped woodworking for the night.  With that attitude I run the risk of ruining the piece or hurting myself.

I made most of the cuts in my face vise.

I built this quick and dirty bench hook out of scrap walnut and cherry.  It's nice to have an 8/4 stop because it sticks out above the wood and helps me guide the saw.

This was my first time hand chopping mortises.  Normally I use a brace and bit if I'm in a hand tool mood and a drill press or router if I'm not.

In a perfect world I'd use either 8/4 hard maple or purple heart to match the table top.  However, the only 8/4 stock that I had enough of was some walnut that I bought for the workbench and never used.

This is a finished mortise. I took out the planer marks with a hand plane after this picture.

Next I trimmed up the tenon to fit.

It fits. Now I have 7 more to go. :-)

I used a cheap tapering jig that I bought at woodcraft to taper the two inside edges of the legs.

I wanted to add an inlay to the table top as a way to dress it up a bit.  I saw it on Roy Underhill's show and it looked pretty cool.  This is the construction of the fence.  It's just a piece of scrap 8/4 walnut with a rabbet cut into it.

These are the tools I built for the inlay.  They are pretty simple but it took me a while to come up with them.  The walnut fence is attached to some scrap plywood.  The cutting tool rides along it to rip 1/32" wide strips.  I bought 1/32" thick basswood but none of my power tools can rip that that small without breaking the piece.

The sassafras cutting  tool on the right has an exacto mounted in a small dado.  I used a chisel to make the dado.  I just kept going deeper until I got the 1/32" thickness I wanted.  The dado also supports the knife so it doesn't rotate on the screw.

The tool on the left is used to carve out a groove for the basswood inlay.

This is the first circle I made in the table.  I've actually made this pattern about 1 1/2 times as practice/prototypes.

My "clamping" device.  FYI, that block of wood under the plane is my completed prototype.  I learned a lot while I was making it.

After the glue dried I used a card scraper to bring the inlay level with the surface of the wood.

This is the first semi-circle.  The procedure was simple.  I'd carve out the groove with my radius tool, then I'd press the basswood strip into place.  Typically I'd find a spot that wasn't deep enough so I'd go back and dig it out with whatever worked.  I tried not to do it all with my radius tool because it left a hole where the reference pin/screw poked the wood.  I'd get the pattern with the radius tool and carve the depth with chisels, a small carving tool, and the radius tool without using the reference pin.

This picture is a little fuzzy but you can seen the last groove is started.  I learned that it's best to cross the other basswood with the radius tool lightly then make the full severing cuts with a good sharp chisel.  Trying to do it all with my radius tool would tend to tear up the other inlay a bit.

This is the finished pattern.  I came up with it myself by using a compass to doodle until I stumbled across it.  I thought it looked pretty cool and I liked that I only needed to use one radius tool.  I have no doubt that millions of other people have figured out that you can make that pattern with one radius but I didn't have a book or anything to follow and this is what I arrived at.

This is the table, it's ready for its first coat of finish.

I applied 3 coats of Arm-R-Seal to the entire piece.  When I applied shellac to my mission style bed I kept getting a headache.  That was when I got serious about protecting myself from the fumes given off from finishing.

Here's an overall shot of the table. 

This is a decent shot of the entire table and the inlay work I did in an effort to dress it up.  Because this table will be thrown to the wolves it seemed like a good place to try something new.  If I mess it up who cares, it's going to be roughed up in short order anyway. :-)

Another shot of the inlay.  It came out even better than I expected it to. :-)

I bought these table top fasteners from woodcraft.  They allow for the wood movement in the table without causing it to crack.  I used a router with a 1/8" slot cutting bit to create the slots.

Once nice thing about working with maple is that you're likely to run into at least a little figured grain.  The Arm-R-Seal seems to show it off just as well as Watco Danish oil.